
What Anthony Bourdain taught us about food (and about style)

Text: Mikael Vallin
Photo: Alamy
BOURDAIN THE PERFECTIONIST
Our first, most lasting memory of Anthony Bourdain was his clear and in-depth overview of how to use garlic when cooking. How to slice the cloves paper-thin, like they do in the film Goodfellas, and heat them with solemn care without burning them. And how using a reprehensible garlic press ought to be grounds for a whipping. Bourdain’s account of how and why you should use shallots persuaded this author to swear his way through the laborious and time-consuming peeling of these small oval delicacies. Combined with variety of other root vegetables and spices, they slowly reduce into a homemade demi glace that instantly elevates any dish.THE AUTHOR AND THE ARTISTIC SOUL
Both episodes were passages in Bourdain’s book Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly. In it, the author offers an in-depth, autobiographical account of his life in the kitchens of the world’s most exclusive restaurants. He recounts how his heroin-addicted baker, in the midst of his most heaviest high, called Bourdain and begged him to save his barrel of sourdough. How Bourdain himself spent days in a cold room, where he and his colleague, high on LSD, created a spectacular dinner featuring hand-carved sculptures of mushrooms. For such was his life: Filled with extreme passion and the ingenious personality that took Anthony Bourdain all the way to the top, heading up the kitchens of such top New York restaurants as The Supper Club, One Fifth Avenue and Sullivan’s. He eventually became head chef at Brasserie Les Halles, in 1998.
Books became TV series, and Bourdain also worked as a producer and travelled the world for his series A Cook’s Tour: Global Adventures in Extreme Cuisines, which later became a book. It was highly demanding life lived at a furious pace, balanced by the continuous use of various drugs, which led to the fate that has met so many other ambitious superstars. On 8 June 2018, Anthony Bourdain took his own life in a hotel room in Kayserberg, France. However, it should be noted that it has been established that Bourdain’s death was not drug-related.