Style Advice

Three selvedge jeans to keep an eye on

Jeans have evolved from work wear to a true style icon, focusing on timelessness and craftsmanship, with brands like APC, Orslow, and RRL leading the way with their durable, artisanal crafted jeans. Here, we present three carefully selected examples of selvedge jeans, designed to last for years to come.

Text: Victor Lacabanne
Photo: Patrik Hagborg

Published 2024-11-09

The world of denim holds a rich history of quality and craftsmanship. From France’s APC and Japan’s Orslow to RRL’s American heritage, these iconic brands offer durable jeans that celebrate the tradition of craftsmanship and a passion for classic denim fabrics. Originally made for miners and cowboys, jeans have transformed into a symbol of both style and functionality. Among the most sought-after types of denim are selvedge jeans, a fabric woven on traditional looms, characterised by its tight hem, often marked by a thin red stitch. Selvedge jeans are known for their durability and their beautifully aged fades over time, making them a favourite among denim enthusiasts and a true example of craftsmanship. Which are your favourites?

Japan's orSlow

Orslow's 105 jeans are perhaps one of the most prominent models on the market. They are inspired by the classic jeans of the 1960s, designed by the early pioneers of denim manufacturing. These jeans have evolved through many years of experimenting with various modifications and reproductions from vintage denim archives. They are crafted from Orslow’s proprietary denim fabric from Japan, woven at low tension using "shuttle loom" machines—an older type of loom. This gives the jeans an authentic feel and a fluffier, almost woolly texture that develops beautiful fades over time.

Orslow’s jeans are "one wash," meaning they have been pre-washed to minimise shrinkage and improve comfort. Raw denim in unwashed condition is often stiff and shrinks significantly after the first wash, which these jeans avoid through their pre-washed process.

orSlow Straight Fit 105 Selvedge Jeans One Wash

France's APC jeans

These slim-fit raw denim jeans from French brand APC are a classic with a contemporary touch. They offer a modern interpretation of selvedge denim, a garment that many denim enthusiasts have tried or owned at some point. Typical of APC jeans is that they are "rigid," meaning completely unwashed. This gives them a stiff, almost paper-like feel, which, over time, moulds to the wearer and develops a personalised fit.

The model has a unisex fit with a slimmer silhouette, which also contributes to more pronounced fades at the knees and front of the thighs. For those who appreciate natural fading and have the patience to wear the jeans for several months before washing, this is the perfect choice. The jeans are made from high-quality Japanese denim.

RRL - Made in USA

RRL and Ralph Lauren are masters at recreating vintage-inspired garments, and their jeans are no exception. Jeans labelled MADE IN USA carry a special prestige, as the USA is the birthplace of jeans, with a history dating back to the 1800s. These jeans feature a slightly wider silhouette and gain inspiration from 1930s jeans models. They are made from Tennessee cotton, dyed with natural indigo, and woven in Japan on traditional wooden looms.

"Woven on vintage wooden shuttle looms to create 451.3g right-hand twill that is exclusive to Double RL."– RRL

For true denim enthusiasts who appreciate garments with historical roots and fine details, these jeans are a true gem. Every detail is carefully selected to provide a truly authentic retro feel.